Pac-Man Frog Supplies, Food & Care Guides

Pacman frogs are round, wide-mouthed, wonderfully grumpy-looking amphibians that look like a living beanbag with a grin. They are also one of the most misunderstood pets in the hobby. A Pacman frog is an ambush predator (an animal that hunts by sitting perfectly still and striking the moment something edible wanders close, rather than chasing prey). It will sit half-buried in damp soil for hours, then lunge at a cricket, a nightcrawler, or a careless finger with exactly the same enthusiasm. It is a pet to watch, not to hold, and it will eat until it makes itself sick if you let it. Get those three things right and you have a remarkably easy, characterful, long-lived companion that needs a modest enclosure and a simple routine. Get them wrong and the most common outcome is a very fat, very unwell frog. This guide walks you through all of it in plain language, with the honest version of every tricky bit. Start with the Quick Start, set the enclosure up before the frog comes home, and keep the feeding section close at hand, because feeding is where this species is won or lost.

Quick Start: Your First 48 Hours

1. Set up the complete enclosure before your frog arrives. A 10-gallon tank is workable for a juvenile, and a 20-gallon long (a low, wide tank, the "long" meaning extra floor space) is the right home for an adult. Pacman frogs live on the ground, so choose floor space over height. Add a secure lid with ventilation, because a determined frog will push at a loose one and you do not want a surprise escape.
2. Build the substrate deep enough to dig in. Fill the enclosure with 3 to 4 inches or more of damp coco fiber or a coco and topsoil mix. The frog needs to bury itself to feel safe and to stay moist. Dampen it until a squeezed handful holds together and releases only a few drops, never dripping, never muddy.
3. Treat the water before you pour it. Tap water contains chlorine or chloramine, and both harm amphibians through their skin. Use a dechlorinator (a water conditioner that neutralizes chlorine and chloramine) for every drop of water the frog touches, including the water you use to dampen the substrate and mist the tank. Fill a shallow dish with treated water that is easy to climb in and out of.
4. Get the temperature right and confirm it with a probe. Daytime 75 to 82°F (ideal around 78 to 80°F), night 70 to 75°F, and never below about 68°F. Warm the tank gently with a thermostat-controlled under-tank heater stuck to the side of the enclosure, or a low-wattage lamp. Verify the numbers with a digital probe thermometer before the frog goes in. A stick-on strip thermometer is not good enough.
5. Get the humidity working. Target 70 to 80% on a digital hygrometer, using damp substrate, light misting with treated water, and a partly covered lid. Let it run for a full day and check it hasn't drifted before the frog arrives.
6. Set up a day and night light cycle. Ten to twelve hours of gentle light, then full darkness. Consider a low-level UVB tube (UVB is the ultraviolet band that lets an animal make vitamin D3 and absorb calcium). It is not strictly required for this species, but keepers and vets increasingly recommend a very low dose, described as Ferguson Zone 1. The Ferguson Zone system sorts reptiles and amphibians by how much natural sun they get in the wild, and Zone 1 is the shade-and-shadow category with the lowest UV exposure. We cover it fully in the heat and light section.
7. Move your frog in without picking it up. Open the shipping container inside the enclosure, or gently tip the frog onto the substrate using a clean, damp cup. Resist handling. Give the frog a few minutes to burrow, then close the lid and leave it alone.
8. Hold off on the first meal. Let the frog settle for 24 to 48 hours. Then offer one appropriately sized item (a cricket or a small piece of nightcrawler) using long feeding tongs. Never use your fingers. Feeders should be gut-loaded, which means the insects were fed a nutritious diet for a day or two before they became a meal, so that nutrition passes to the frog.
9. Wash your hands, every time. Amphibians can carry Salmonella, a bacterium that causes serious stomach illness in people. Wash with soap for at least 20 seconds after touching the enclosure, the water dish, the substrate or the frog. Rinse well, because soap residue on your hands transfers to the enclosure and the frog.
10. Find an exotic or amphibian-experienced vet before you need one. A vet who sees only dogs and cats may not know how to treat a frog. Call ahead, confirm they see amphibians, and keep the number near the tank.

First-Time Starter Bundle

What needs to be in the house before your frog arrives, and what to look for in each category.

Essentials

• A secure, ventilated enclosure sized for the frog's current age: a 10-gallon tank for a juvenile, a 20-gallon long for an adult. Choose one with a lid that locks or clips down and has a screened section for airflow. Floor space matters far more than height.
• Deep, burrowable substrate made of plain coco fiber or a coco and plain topsoil mix with no fertilizers, pesticides or additives. Buy enough to fill the enclosure 3 to 4 inches or more deep, plus some spare for top-ups.
• A thermostat-controlled heat source that warms the tank gently from the side or from a low-wattage overhead lamp, with a guard so the frog cannot touch it. The thermostat is non-negotiable: unregulated heat is the leading cause of burns.
• Two digital thermometers with probes so you can read the temperature at substrate level at the warm end and the cool end. Skip the stick-on dial thermometers.
• A digital hygrometer to read humidity. You need a real number rather than a guess.
• A spray bottle reserved only for this tank, never used for cleaning products, to mist treated water.
• Water dechlorinator that neutralizes both chlorine and chloramine, for tap water used in the dish, for misting and for dampening substrate.
• A shallow water dish with a low rim or a gentle ramp, wide enough for the frog to sit in with its head above the surface, so the frog can climb out easily.
• A hide or cover such as a half log, a curved piece of cork bark or a ceramic cave, for the frog to settle beside. Even a burrowing frog feels better with a visual anchor.
• Long feeding tongs or forceps (stainless steel or soft-tipped) so your fingers stay out of the strike zone.
• A reliable feeder insect supply with a small container and a gut-load diet to keep feeders fed and healthy between meals.
• Plain calcium powder (without D3) and a reptile and amphibian multivitamin for dusting feeders on a schedule.
• A small kitchen scale or measuring ruler so you can track weight and length and catch gradual weight gain early.

Ready to set up? Browse the essentials in our collections: Reptile and Amphibian Enclosures and Reptile and Amphibian Terrarium Supplies & Accessories.

Enrichment

• Live or artificial plants for cover and a more natural look. Choose smooth-leaved artificial plants or non-toxic live species rooted in pots buried in the substrate.
• A background on three sides such as cork sheet, textured foam or simple paper on the outside of the glass, to reduce reflections and give the enclosure a calmer feel.
• Natural leaf litter or sphagnum moss patches over part of the surface, which hold humidity, give the frog a texture to settle into, and look lovely.
• Smooth, rounded stones or driftwood placed on top of the substrate (not balanced where they could shift and crush a burrowing frog) to create a more natural landscape.
• A small dedicated feeder container or cricket keeper, plus an extra shallow dish for mixing gut-load, so feeding day runs smoothly.
• A secure travel container with ventilation and a damp paper towel inside, for vet visits and emergencies.

Enrichment, one click away. Shop Reptile and Amphibian Accessories.

Meet Your Pacman Frog

Wild Pacman frogs live in the grasslands, wetlands and scrub of South America, mainly in Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay, Brazil and Bolivia. They belong to the genus Ceratophrys, which means "horned frogs," named for the little pointed flaps above each eye. The species most people mean by "Pacman frog" is the Ornate horned frog (Ceratophrys ornata), but you will also see the Argentine horned frog (the same animal's other common name), the stockier Cranwell's horned frog (Ceratophrys cranwelli), and the Chaco or Bell's horned frog (Ceratophrys species), and a range of hybrids and color morphs bred for pattern and color. The pet trade is dominated by captive-bred frogs, and the color morphs are where the fun is: green and rust wild types, albino, strawberry (pink-red), pastel, lime, and many more.

In the wild, these frogs spend most of the year buried, and the dry season sends them underground to shelter. When the rains return they wake, call, breed and hunt. They hunt by waiting. A Pacman frog digs itself into soft, damp soil until only the eyes and the top of the head remain, and then it sits. When something moves within range (an insect, a small frog, a mouse, a lizard) it opens a mouth almost as wide as its body and engulfs the prey in a single motion. It has teeth-like projections along the jaw and a surprisingly strong bite, and it is not choosy. It will try to eat anything that moves near it, including your fingers and other frogs.

The honest picture: a look-don't-touch pet

The Pacman frog's reputation as a "starter pet" is half true. The setup is simple, the enclosure is small, and they don't ask for much. But this is a display and observation animal, and that is a different thing from a pet you carry around on your shoulder.

Amphibian skin is permeable, meaning it absorbs water, gases and anything else that touches it. That is how a frog drinks and breathes through its skin, and it is also why the oils on your hands, hand lotion, sunscreen, soap residue and insect repellent can irritate or poison them. Their skin is delicate and easily damaged. On the other side of that equation is the mouth: a Pacman frog's bite is firm enough to break human skin, and a startled frog may clamp on and hold. It is not malice. It is a hunting reflex that does not distinguish between a cricket and a finger.

So the Pacman frog lives by one house rule: look, don't touch. If a move is truly unavoidable, you will use clean, wet, powder-free gloves, and we'll show you how in the handling section.

Size, lifespan and what to plan for

Pacman frogs are not big, but they are wide. A healthy adult female is a plump 4 to 6 inches long and nearly as wide, with some reaching 7 inches. Males stay smaller. Froglets sold in shops are often only an inch or two across, and they grow quickly in their first year. With good care you can expect 6 to 10 years, and well-kept frogs are reported to reach 15. That is a real commitment, comparable to a cat, for an animal that rarely does anything but sit and stare.

Color morphs

Color morphs are bred from the wild-type pattern. Albino frogs are creamy yellow with orange-red eyes, strawberry frogs are a blush pink with darker spotting, and pastels and other morphs run through every shade between. Color does not change the care requirements. It does change the price, and some very light morphs may be more sensitive to bright light, so give them a hide.

What surprises new owners

Three things catch most new keepers off guard. The first is how little they move. A healthy, content Pacman frog can sit buried and motionless for days, and new owners often worry it's sick when it's simply being a Pacman frog. The second is how hard they eat. A frog will strike at nearly anything and keep eating well past the point of fullness, so you are the only thing standing between your frog and obesity, which is the commonest killer in captivity. The third is the cocoon. In dry conditions, or when it's too cool, a Pacman frog may shed layers of skin and wrap itself in a papery shell called a cocoon, sealing in moisture. It looks alarming the first time. We'll explain exactly what it means, and what to do, in the shedding section.

Enclosure Setup & Layout

Choosing the right size

Pacman frogs are low, heavy sit-and-wait animals that rarely climb, so they care about floor space, not height. A tall tank is wasted space and a fall risk. A wide, low tank is perfect.

Very large enclosures are not necessarily better. A frog in a huge tank may struggle to find food, and a big open space is harder to keep warm and humid. Err on the side of a snug, well-heated, deeply dug-in home.

The lid

Pacman frogs are strong for their size, and a determined one can push a loose lid aside. Choose a secure lid with ventilation: a screened or meshed top with clips or a locking frame. If you need to hold in humidity, cover part of the screen with a sheet of acrylic, a piece of foil-backed board or a sheet of plastic, leaving some ventilation open. A completely sealed tank grows mold and stale air; a fully open screen top dries the whole enclosure out.

The enclosure layout, described as a drawing

Imagine the tank as a side-on cutaway diagram. From left to right and top to bottom, here is how we'd label the layout.

A. Lid and light (top). A locking screen lid with the front two-thirds partly covered to hold humidity. A low-output UVB tube and a soft daylight bulb sit above the screen, on a timer. Leave the left half of the tank less brightly lit.

B. Warm end (left side). The thermostat-controlled heat source is attached to the outside of the left wall, low on the glass and covered with a layer of insulation. The probe thermometer sits at substrate level here. Target: 78 to 80°F. The warm end must not become a hot spot: no part of the glass or substrate should be too hot to hold your palm against for ten seconds.

C. Cool end (right side). No heat source here. The probe thermometer at this end should read the low end of the range, around 75°F.

D. Substrate bed (the whole floor). A deep layer of damp coco fiber or coco and topsoil mix, 3 to 4 inches or more deep, smooth and even. Label the depth with a double-headed arrow. The deeper bed on the warm side makes it easy for the frog to find its ideal temperature by burrowing up or down.

E. Hide (center-left). A half log or curved cork bark resting firmly on top of the substrate, partly sunk in so it can't shift. The frog may sit beside it, beneath it or in the substrate next to it.

F. Water dish (center-right). A shallow, flat-bottomed dish sunk into the substrate until its rim is nearly level with the surface. Just deep enough for the frog to sit in with its nostrils above water. Filled with dechlorinated water, changed daily.

G. Plants and cover (back wall). A few artificial or live plants with smooth leaves and a patch of sphagnum moss or leaf litter for visual cover.

H. Background (three outer walls). A solid, non-reflective background on the back and both sides to make the frog feel hidden and secure.

Keeping it clean

Pacman frogs are messy. They eat large meals and produce proportionally large waste. Spot-clean daily: remove droppings, uneaten feeders and any cocoon fragments or fouled substrate. Replace the top inch or two of substrate as needed, and do a full change every one to three months depending on how well your spot-cleaning is working. Use only hot water and a very thoroughly rinsed scrub for the dish and decor. Do not use household cleaners, sprays or disinfectant wipes in or near the enclosure; the fumes alone can harm an amphibian, and a trace of residue on a dish can poison it.

Substrate Guide

A Pacman frog does not simply live on its substrate. It lives in it. The right substrate lets the frog burrow, holds moisture steadily and carries no risk of injury or impaction. That last word matters: impaction is a blockage in the digestive tract, caused when a frog swallows something it can't digest, such as gravel or bark chips, along with its food.

Substrate to avoid outright

• Gravel, pebbles and small stones. Swallowed with a cricket, they cause impaction.
• Bark chunks, orchid bark and large wood chips. They can be swallowed, scratch skin, and don't allow burrowing.
• Cedar and aromatic pine shavings. The oils are toxic to amphibians.
• Dry sand and calcium sand. It's an impaction risk, it dries the frog's skin and it is not a safe calcium source.
• Soil or compost with fertilizers, slow-release feed, pesticides, moisture crystals or wetting agents. These chemicals are absorbed through the skin.
• Wild-dug soil. It may carry parasites, chemicals and unknown organisms.
• Anything scented, dyed or treated. If it smells, the frog will absorb it.

Moisture is the secret

Whichever substrate you choose, the point is damp, not wet. Squeeze a handful: if it holds together and releases a drop or two, it's right. If it drips or leaves a puddle, it's too wet; if it crumbles like dry cake, it's too dry. Pour treated water into one corner and let it spread, and mist the surface lightly each day.

Heat, Light & Humidity — The 3 Numbers

Pacman frogs are forgiving about many things, but not these. Heat, light and humidity form a triangle: when one slips, the others follow, and the frog tells you with a cocoon, a refusal to eat or a skin problem. Getting these numbers right and keeping them steady is the heart of Pacman frog husbandry.

Heat: gentle, from the side, on a thermostat

The safest way to heat a Pacman frog tank is to warm it gently, from the side or from a low-wattage lamp, and always on a thermostat (a device that senses temperature and switches the heat on and off to hold it steady). Here is why.

Pacman frogs dig down. If you put a heat pad under the tank, the frog burrows toward the heat and can sit on a surface that's much hotter than the thermometer at the top suggests. That is a direct route to burns. A heat pad stuck to the back or side wall warms the air and the surrounding substrate more evenly. A low-wattage lamp or ceramic heat emitter above the tank can also work, provided it's guarded and on a thermostat. Never use a heat rock, and never leave a heater running without a thermostat.

Check the temperature at substrate level, at both ends of the tank, morning and evening, for the first week. Then check at least daily.

Light: do you need UVB?

This is a point on which keepers and vets disagree, so here is the safe version. A Pacman frog is mostly nocturnal and spends its days buried, so UVB is not strictly required. Many frogs live long, healthy lives without it. However, low-level UVB is increasingly recommended, because it helps the body make vitamin D3, which supports calcium absorption and bone health, especially when diet and supplements aren't perfect.

The language here is Ferguson Zone 1. Dr. Gary Ferguson sorted reptiles and amphibians into four zones by how much sunlight they receive in the wild. Zone 1 is the "shade-dwellers and nocturnal species" category, with the lowest exposure. A Pacman frog fits there. In practice, this means:

• Use a low-output UVB tube, mounted over part of the screen top rather than the whole thing.
• Place it at the distance the manufacturer recommends for a Zone 1 animal, or measure with a UV index meter if you have one. Aim well below a UV index of 1 where the frog sits.
• Leave a shaded, hidden area so the frog can always choose to get out of the light.
• Provide 10 to 12 hours of light followed by genuine darkness.
• Replace the tube according to the manufacturer's schedule, usually every 6 to 12 months. UVB output fades before the visible light does.

If you choose not to use UVB, keep your calcium dusting and multivitamin schedule strict and make sure the light cycle is regular. If you choose to use it, never skip the shaded retreat.

Humidity: damp, warm and ventilated

Seventy to eighty percent humidity sounds hard to hold, but a deep, damp substrate does most of the work. Keep the substrate damp, mist the tank with treated water once or twice a day, leave part of the lid covered and make sure the hygrometer sits at mid-height. If readings drop, mist more, add moss or cover more of the screen. If readings climb above 85% and the glass is always fogged with condensation, open the vents slightly. A tank that is humid but still has gentle airflow is the goal.

Quick-fix guide

Diet & Nutrition

Pacman frogs are strict carnivores. Every part of their biology is built for catching and swallowing whole animals, and they cannot digest plant matter. They are also, without exaggeration, eating machines. Their hunting reflex is triggered by movement, not hunger, so a frog that is full will still strike at a cricket that wriggles in front of it. That is why obesity is the commonest killer of captive Pacman frogs. A frog that can eat will eat, and it's your job to say when to stop.

The good news is that the diet itself is simple. Think "Clean Fuel, No Junk": varied, well-fed insects and worms, gut-loaded and dusted, offered in sensible portions on a sensible schedule. No mystery ingredients, no shortcuts and nothing from the backyard.

The feeder chart

Gut-loading and dusting

Gut-loading means feeding your feeder insects a nutritious diet for 24 to 48 hours before they become a meal. The insect's gut is full of nutrients when the frog swallows it, and that nutrition passes to the frog. A good gut-load diet includes commercial gut-load feed, leafy greens such as collards, mustard greens and dandelion greens, and vegetables such as carrot, sweet potato and squash. Feed worms and roaches the same way; keep nightcrawlers in cool, damp bedding.

Dusting means lightly coating the feeder insect in a fine supplement powder just before feeding. Place the insects in a small cup or bag with a pinch of powder, shake gently and feed immediately.

Prey sizing

The traditional rule is that prey should be no wider than the gap between the frog's eyes, and many keepers go even smaller for juveniles. A good frog can swallow bigger things, but it shouldn't have to. Oversized prey increases the risk of choking, regurgitation and impaction.

Feeding schedule by age

These are safe starting ranges. Different keepers and vets recommend slightly different frequencies, so treat the numbers as a guide and adjust to your frog's body condition. If your adult is getting rounder, feed less. If a juvenile looks thin or sunken at the hips, feed more.

How to feed safely

• Use feeding tongs, never your fingers. The frog will strike at movement and may bite hard.
• Offer one item at a time and let the frog swallow completely before offering the next.
• Remove uneaten live feeders after 15 to 30 minutes. Crickets can nibble a resting frog.
• Feed in the evening or at lights-out, when your frog is naturally most active.
• Never feed a cold or very warm frog. The temperature should be in range before any meal.
• Keep a feeding log with the date, the item and how much was eaten. It makes weight problems visible weeks before they become serious.

Obesity prevention

A Pacman frog doesn't stop eating when it's full, so you must stop for it. A healthy frog is plump but not perfectly round: its belly should be firm, its eyes should sit comfortably on top of its head, and a gentle crease or ridge should be visible where the thigh meets the body. Warning signs of obesity include:

• Fat rolls at the sides or tops of the legs, or a bulge behind the head
• A body that is as wide as it is long, with no waist
• Eyes that look sunken as fat builds up around them
• Limbs that look short and stubby, and difficulty digging
• A belly that drags or flattens on the substrate

To prevent obesity:

• Stick to the age-based feeding schedule and don't give in to begging or strikes at the glass.
• Choose staples (crickets, dubia, nightcrawlers) over treats.
• Limit fatty items such as waxworms and pinkies to once a month or less.
• Weigh your frog monthly and record it.
• Reduce meal size before reducing frequency.

Supplements

Vitamin A deserves a special note. Deficiency causes swollen eyes, poor shedding and sticky tongue problems, but excess can cause its own damage. Use a good multivitamin on schedule, feed a varied gut-loaded diet, and don't pile extra vitamin A on top of it. If you are unsure, ask your vet.

Never-feed list

• Wild-caught insects, fireflies and any insect from a pesticide-treated area
• Raw or cooked meat, hamburger, bacon, cat or dog food, or any human food
• Fruit or vegetables (they can't digest them)
• Prey larger than the gap between the eyes
• Other frogs, tadpoles, newts or wild fish
• Dead prey that has been sitting out, or live feeders that have been dead for hours
• Anything from a house sprayed with insecticide or cleaning products

Shop the food and supplies: Browse Reptile & Amphibian Food and Live Feed Delivered!.

Shedding & Water Care

The shed cycle

All amphibians shed their skin. A healthy Pacman frog sheds regularly, often every one to four weeks depending on age, temperature and humidity, and juveniles shed more often than adults. The process happens at night or while the frog is buried. It will arch its back, wriggle, work the old skin forward with its limbs and mouth, and then swallow it. This is completely normal and is how the frog recycles nutrients. You may never see it, but you may notice small scraps of papery skin on the substrate or a slightly dull, cloudy look to the frog a day or two beforehand.

The cocoon, explained

In the wild, Pacman frogs survive the dry season by burrowing and forming a cocoon, a layered, papery shell of unshed skin that seals in moisture and keeps the frog alive for months. In captivity a cocoon usually signals dry or cool conditions, a stressed frog, or a frog that is too hungry or too fat to behave normally. If you see your frog covered in a thin, translucent shell or surrounded by a ring of papery skin, here is what to do:

• Check humidity and substrate moisture first. They are almost always too low.
• Check temperature. If the night temperature has dropped below 70°F or the daytime is under 75°F, adjust gently.
• Mist the tank with treated water and keep the substrate damp.
• Leave the cocoon in place if the frog is calm. Forcing it off can tear skin and cause stress.
• Offer water and a damp environment; the frog should emerge on its own when conditions improve.
• If the cocoon has covered the nostrils or mouth, or if it lasts for weeks, contact a vet.

Stuck shed and skin problems

Shedding problems appear as thick, white or gray patches that don't lift, particularly on the toes, belly and around the eyes. They usually mean low humidity or poor water quality. Raise humidity and keep the substrate damp. Never pull dry skin; it can tear living tissue underneath. If you must help, use a very shallow bath of treated water and let the skin loosen on its own. If patches persist or the skin looks red, swollen or raw, speak to your vet.

Dechlorinating water

Dechlorinator is a water conditioner that neutralizes chlorine and chloramine, the disinfectants most municipal water supplies add to tap water. Chlorine can burn amphibian skin and gills, and chloramine is even harder to remove, so just letting water sit does not make it safe. Use a product made for aquariums and confirm that it handles both chlorine and chloramine, then follow the label dose. Use treated water for the dish, for misting and for dampening substrate. Distilled water on its own lacks minerals and is not ideal for long-term use, and untreated spring water may contain unknown additives, so treated tap water is the simple, reliable choice.

The water dish routine

• Choose a shallow dish with a low rim or a gentle ramp, wide enough for the frog to sit in with its head above water.
• Sink the rim to substrate level so the frog can climb in and out easily.
• Change the water every day. Frogs urinate and defecate in water, and it fouls quickly.
• Scrub the dish weekly with hot water and a clean sponge reserved for the purpose, then rinse thoroughly.
• Never use soap or disinfectants on the dish unless you rinse for a full minute afterward.
• Check the water level. The frog should be able to rest with its nostrils above the surface.

Common Challenges & Solutions

Obesity

What you see: a frog as wide as it is long, fat rolls at the legs and behind the head, eyes that look sunken or squeezed, short stubby limbs and a belly that drags. Why: Pacman frogs strike at anything that moves, so they overeat if allowed to, and fatty feeders such as waxworms and pinky mice speed it along. Obesity strains the liver and heart and is the commonest killer of captive Pacman frogs. What to do: cut portion size first, then frequency, and shift to lean staples such as crickets and dubia roaches. Stop fatty treats entirely for a few months, and weigh the frog monthly. Slow, steady loss is the goal. When to call a vet: if the frog is very heavy, has swelling that looks like fluid, or is struggling to breathe or move.

Edema and bloat

What you see: a puffy, balloon-like frog with skin that looks tight and watery, particularly around the legs and belly. Why: edema is a buildup of fluid under the skin. In amphibians it's a sign that something is wrong with the kidneys, heart, bacterial infection or water balance, often linked to poor water quality, obesity or an infection. It is not the same as fat. What to do: check water quality, make sure all water is dechlorinated, keep the enclosure clean and warm, and do not try to drain or puncture the swelling. When to call a vet: the same day. Edema is a serious sign and usually needs diagnostics and medication.

Impaction

What you see: no droppings for a long time despite normal feeding, a hard or swollen belly, loss of appetite, lethargy, straining or regurgitating. Why: the frog swallowed something it could not pass, such as gravel, bark chunks, a too-large feeder or a hard-shelled insect. Loose substrate stuck to a wet cricket can do it too. What to do: correct the substrate immediately and switch to a safe one, offer smaller prey and check temperatures. A shallow bath of treated water may help but is not a cure. When to call a vet: within a day or two. Impaction can be fatal without veterinary treatment.

Metabolic bone disease (MBD)

What you see: weak or bent limbs, a soft or crooked jaw, a hunched posture, trembling, difficulty walking or lifting the body, and in advanced cases, broken bones. Why: too little calcium, too little vitamin D3 or an imbalance of the two. Skipping dusting, feeding only one type of insect or using no supplements are the usual causes. What to do: start a calcium and multivitamin schedule, gut-load feeders, vary the diet and consider low-level UVB. When to call a vet: as soon as you notice limb weakness or jaw changes. Early cases improve with treatment, but advanced damage cannot be reversed.

Red-leg (bacterial infection)

What you see: red, pink or blotchy skin on the belly, thighs or underside of the legs, sometimes with weeping sores, lethargy and a refusal to eat. Why: red-leg is a bacterial infection, often caused by dirty water, a dirty enclosure, a wet or soggy substrate or a weakened immune system. It can be fast moving and fatal. What to do: move the frog to a clean quarantine tub with damp paper towels, use treated water, and keep temperature steady. Do not try home remedies. When to call a vet: immediately. Red-leg needs prescription treatment.

Fungal infections

What you see: white, cottony or gray patches on the skin, flaky or slimy areas, and sometimes a musty smell from the substrate. Why: persistent dampness with poor ventilation, dirty substrate, low temperatures or an injured or stressed frog. What to do: replace the substrate, clean the enclosure, improve ventilation and check temperatures. Do not apply over-the-counter treatments to the skin. When to call a vet: as soon as you see patches, because fungal infections can spread quickly through permeable skin.

Vitamin A deficiency

What you see: swollen or puffy eyelids, eyes that stay closed, poor or stuck shed, a swollen or sticky tongue, weight loss and lethargy. Why: not enough vitamin A, usually from a repetitive diet of one or two feeders, no multivitamin or poorly gut-loaded insects. What to do: diversify feeders, gut-load with orange and dark green vegetables, and use a good multivitamin on schedule. Do not guess at doses, because too much vitamin A is harmful too. When to call a vet: within a few days. Treatment usually involves a vet-prescribed vitamin A course.

Eye injuries

What you see: a closed, cloudy, scratched or bulging eye; excess mucus; or a frog that rubs its face on the glass. Why: scratches from rough decor, rubbing against the glass or lid, bites from feeders, or irritants such as spray, smoke or cleaning products. What to do: remove sharp decor, keep feeders out of the tank when not in use, check water and air quality, and keep the frog in a clean, damp setup. When to call a vet: within a day. Eye injuries can become infected quickly.

Burns from unsafe heat

What you see: red, blistered, peeling or discolored skin on the belly or back, a frog that is buried unusually deep or avoiding part of the tank, and sometimes a strong odor. Why: heating from beneath the tank without a thermostat, glass heated by a bulb, a heat rock or a heat source the frog can touch. What to do: remove the heater at once, move the frog to a clean cool-damp tub at room temperature on paper towels, and rebuild the setup with a thermostat and side-mounted heat. When to call a vet: the same day. Burns are painful and quickly become infected.

Chemical poisoning from cleaning products

What you see: excess mucus, frantic movement or sudden stillness, red or damaged skin, twitching, breathing difficulty or a collapsed frog. Why: residue from soap, disinfectant, air freshener, cleaning spray, hand lotion, insect spray or smoke, absorbed through permeable skin or fumes. What to do: move the frog into a clean tub with treated water, rinse the enclosure thoroughly, replace the substrate and ventilate the room. Keep all sprays and aerosols well away from the tank. When to call a vet: immediately. Poisoning can be fatal within hours.

Not eating

What you see: a frog that ignores food, turns away from feeders, or buries itself for days. Why: the most common causes are temperature or humidity that is out of range, a cocoon, a stressful move, a recent shed or feeders that are too large. A less common cause is illness. What to do: check temperature and humidity first, then substrate moisture, then the size and type of prey. Offer a wriggling nightcrawler piece with tongs. Leave the frog alone and wait a few days. When to call a vet: if the frog hasn't eaten for two to three weeks as an adult (sooner for juveniles), is losing weight or shows any other symptom.

Quick reference

Handling

The hands-off philosophy

A Pacman frog is not a lap pet, and it doesn't need to be. It is a creature to observe: the slow burrow, the sudden strike, the little ritual of shedding and swallowing its own skin. Every time you pick it up, you risk harming its permeable skin with oils, lotion, soap or sunscreen, stressing it, dropping it or being bitten. The healthiest frogs are the ones that are moved as little as possible.

That means no routine handling, no "just a quick hold," and no showing it to guests in your hands. Look through the glass, feed with tongs, and enjoy what the frog does on its own.

Safe feeding technique

• Use feeding tongs or forceps with soft tips, never fingers.
• Hold the prey item a few inches in front of the frog, wiggle it gently, and let the frog strike and swallow.
• Withdraw the tongs smoothly once the frog has the prey. Don't jerk, because the frog may still be clamped on.
• Keep your hands away from the mouth at all times. If the frog does clamp onto tongs or a finger, stay calm, don't pull, and wait for it to release. Run a little treated water over the frog's mouth if needed.
• Wash your hands with soap and rinse very thoroughly afterward.

The rare, unavoidable move

Sometimes you must move your frog: for a full enclosure clean, a health emergency or a vet visit. Do it with care:

1. Prepare the destination first, a clean, damp tub or travel container with a damp paper towel and treated water.
2. Wash your hands with plain soap, rinse for a full minute and remove any lotion, sunscreen or insect repellent.
3. Put on clean, wet, powder-free gloves (nitrile is a common choice). Rinse them in treated water until they're slippery and chemical-free. Dry gloves stick to skin and can tear it.
4. Move slowly and scoop the frog from underneath with both hands, supporting the whole body.
5. Keep it low over a soft surface in case it wriggles.
6. Return the frog to its enclosure promptly and let it settle without being disturbed.
7. Dispose of the gloves and wash your hands again.

A cup or a shallow tub often works better than hands. Tip the frog gently into it where possible.

Children and families

Children and Pacman frogs are best kept at a respectful distance. A bite can break skin, and a child's hands are covered in oils and lotions that can hurt the frog. Treat the frog as a display animal: children can watch, help with feeding under direct supervision, and learn about amphibians, but should not handle it. Everyone should wash their hands thoroughly with soap after touching the enclosure, and food should never be prepared nearby.

Routine Care Calendar

When to See a Vet

Amphibians hide illness well. By the time you see symptoms, the problem has usually been building for some time. Pacman frogs are also small, and a small animal has little margin. If you're unsure, call. A short phone call with an amphibian-experienced vet costs less than a week of watching and worrying.

Not every vet treats frogs. You need an exotic or amphibian-experienced vet, so find one before you need one, confirm that they see frogs, and ask about their after-hours or emergency arrangements.

Go today, same day or emergency:

• Puffy, balloon-like swelling under the skin (edema or bloat)
• Red, raw, blistered or peeling skin, or open sores
• Open-mouth breathing, gasping or labored breathing
• Sudden collapse, twitching, seizure-like activity or complete limpness
• A burn, bite wound or any bleeding that doesn't stop
• Suspected chemical poisoning, such as after exposure to cleaning spray, smoke, insect spray or lotion
• A closed, cloudy, bulging or injured eye
• A prolapse (any tissue protruding from the cloaca, the single opening used for waste)
• A frog that has swallowed something inedible or cannot pass droppings and has a hard belly

Book within a few days:

• Weak or bent limbs, soft jaw or trembling (possible metabolic bone disease)
• White, cottony or flaky patches on the skin
• Persistent poor shedding or swollen eyelids
• Gradual weight loss, or visible obesity that isn't improving
• Not eating for two to three weeks (sooner for juveniles)
• A cocoon that persists for weeks despite correct humidity and temperature
• Any new lump, mass or discoloration

Bring a written log of temperatures, humidity, feedings and supplements. Bring a fresh fecal sample in a sealed container if you can, and photograph anything unusual before the appointment. Transport the frog in a ventilated container with a damp paper towel, keeping it at a stable temperature.

FAQ

What do pacman frogs eat?

Pacman frogs are strict carnivores. The staples are gut-loaded, calcium-dusted crickets, dubia roaches and nightcrawlers or earthworms, with hornworms and silkworms as occasional extras and waxworms as an occasional treat. Pinky mice and feeder fish are a rare treat only, because fatty prey encourage obesity. Match the prey size to the gap between the frog's eyes, offer it with tongs, and never feed wild-caught insects, fireflies, human food or pet food.

How big do pacman frogs get?

Adult females usually reach about 4 to 6 inches, and some grow up to about 7 inches, while males stay noticeably smaller. They are almost as wide as they are long, so a full-grown frog is a hefty, rounded animal that looks bigger than its length suggests. Froglets sold in shops are often only an inch or two across and grow quickly in their first year. Overfeeding makes them look bigger without making them healthier, so judge size by length, not by girth.

How long do pacman frogs live?

With good care, most pacman frogs live 6 to 10 years, and a few well-kept individuals have reached 15. Keeping the temperature and humidity steady, feeding appropriately sized meals on a sensible schedule, using dechlorinated water, avoiding unnecessary handling and keeping the frog lean are the biggest factors in reaching the top of that range. Obesity is the most common reason these frogs die young, so portion control is the best long-term care you can give.

What size tank does a pacman frog need?

A 10-gallon tank is workable for a juvenile, and a 20-gallon long is the right home for an adult. Pacman frogs live on the ground and rarely climb, so floor space matters far more than height. Whatever the size, the tank needs a secure, ventilated lid, a deep layer of damp substrate (3 to 4 inches or more) for burrowing, a shallow water dish with an easy exit and a hide. Bigger isn't always better, because large tanks are harder to keep warm and humid.

Do pacman frogs need heat?

Yes. Pacman frogs need a daytime temperature of 75 to 82°F (ideally 78 to 80°F) and a night temperature of 70 to 75°F, and it should never fall below about 68°F. Most homes are too cool, so gentle supplemental heat is usually necessary. The safest options are an under-tank heater applied to the side of the tank or a low-wattage lamp, always on a thermostat, with no hot spots and no glass too hot to touch. Never use a heat rock or an unregulated heater.

Can you hold a pacman frog?

You can, but you shouldn't. Pacman frogs are display animals, not handling pets. Their permeable skin absorbs oils, lotion, soap and chemicals from your hands, and it is easily damaged, while their big mouths and strong bite can break human skin if the frog mistakes you for food. If a move is unavoidable, use clean, wet, powder-free gloves, support the whole body over a soft surface and put the frog back quickly. Always wash your hands afterward, because amphibians can carry Salmonella.

Do pacman frogs bite?

Yes, and it can hurt. A pacman frog's feeding strike is an instant reflex triggered by movement, and it has a wide mouth and a firm, clamping bite that can break skin and sometimes hold on. Most bites happen when fingers get too close during feeding, which is why you should always use long feeding tongs and never your hands. If a frog clamps on, stay calm, don't yank, wait for it to release, then clean the wound thoroughly and watch for signs of infection.

How often do you feed a pacman frog?

Froglets and young juveniles can be fed daily or every other day with appropriately sized prey. As the frog grows, taper to every second or third day, and feed adults two to three times per week with a small, controlled meal. Different keepers and vets recommend slightly different schedules, so adjust to body condition: if your frog is getting rounder, reduce portion size and frequency, and if a juvenile looks thin, increase the amount. Because obesity is the commonest killer, it's always safer to under-feed slightly than to over-feed.

Can two pacman frogs live together?

No. Pacman frogs are strictly solitary and cannibalistic, and they will try to eat anything that moves near them, including other frogs of the same species and size. Housing two together, even briefly, can result in one frog swallowing the other or both being badly injured. Each frog needs its own enclosure with its own water dish and equipment, and tongs and tools should be washed between enclosures. This rule applies to every age, size and color morph.

Why is my pacman frog not eating?

By far the most common causes are the environment and the frog's own cycle. Check that the temperature is 75 to 82°F by day and above 68°F at night, humidity is 70 to 80% and the substrate is damp. A frog that is cocooned, about to shed, recently moved or offered prey that is too big will often refuse food. A healthy adult can skip meals for a week or two without harm. If your frog has not eaten for two to three weeks, is losing weight or shows other symptoms, see an exotic or amphibian vet.

Ready to shop? Start with Reptiles & Amphibians. 10% of every purchase supports no-kill animal shelters. Not sure this is the right pet? Compare your options in our Amphibian Guide.

Every Purchase Gives Back

Before we earn a dime, 10% of every purchase at Walnut Creek Supply goes to no-kill animal shelters across the country. Not as an option at checkout. Off the top of every order, every day, because we believe caring for the animals in our own homes and caring for the ones still waiting for homes are the same promise made in two different directions.

For Pacman frog keepers, that has a particular meaning. These round, patient, funny little frogs are often bought on impulse, and many end up overfed, overhandled or underhoused by owners who simply weren't told how simple and how particular their needs are. You've read the guide. You know the numbers, you know the feeding schedule, and you know why we say look, don't touch. That makes you exactly the kind of keeper these animals deserve.

We're a family business in Christiana, Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. We grow our own food, keep our own animals, and stock the goods we'd put in front of our own pets: no mystery ingredients, Clean Fuel, No Junk, and a straight answer every time. If you have a question about your frog's temperature, humidity, feeding schedule or finding an amphibian-savvy vet in your area, call us at (717) 983-8069. We'd rather talk it through with you.

Welcome to a good many years with one of the most delightfully grumpy-looking animals in the hobby.

_From our family to yours,_ Walnut Creek Supply — Christiana, Lancaster County, Pennsylvania _walnutcreeksupply.com_

What do pacman frogs eat?

Pacman frogs are strict carnivores. The staples are gut-loaded, calcium-dusted crickets, dubia roaches and nightcrawlers or earthworms, with hornworms and silkworms as occasional extras and waxworms as an occasional treat. Pinky mice and feeder fish are a rare treat only, because fatty prey encourage obesity. Match the prey size to the gap between the frog's eyes, offer it with tongs, and never feed wild-caught insects, fireflies, human food or pet food.

How big do pacman frogs get?

Adult females usually reach about 4 to 6 inches, and some grow up to about 7 inches, while males stay noticeably smaller. They are almost as wide as they are long, so a full-grown frog is a hefty, rounded animal that looks bigger than its length suggests. Froglets sold in shops are often only an inch or two across and grow quickly in their first year. Overfeeding makes them look bigger without making them healthier, so judge size by length, not by girth.

How long do pacman frogs live?

With good care, most pacman frogs live 6 to 10 years, and a few well-kept individuals have reached 15. Keeping the temperature and humidity steady, feeding appropriately sized meals on a sensible schedule, using dechlorinated water, avoiding unnecessary handling and keeping the frog lean are the biggest factors in reaching the top of that range. Obesity is the most common reason these frogs die young, so portion control is the best long-term care you can give.

What size tank does a pacman frog need?

A 10-gallon tank is workable for a juvenile, and a 20-gallon long is the right home for an adult. Pacman frogs live on the ground and rarely climb, so floor space matters far more than height. Whatever the size, the tank needs a secure, ventilated lid, a deep layer of damp substrate (3 to 4 inches or more) for burrowing, a shallow water dish with an easy exit and a hide. Bigger isn't always better, because large tanks are harder to keep warm and humid.

Do pacman frogs need heat?

Yes. Pacman frogs need a daytime temperature of 75 to 82°F (ideally 78 to 80°F) and a night temperature of 70 to 75°F, and it should never fall below about 68°F. Most homes are too cool, so gentle supplemental heat is usually necessary. The safest options are an under-tank heater applied to the side of the tank or a low-wattage lamp, always on a thermostat, with no hot spots and no glass too hot to touch. Never use a heat rock or an unregulated heater.

Can you hold a pacman frog?

You can, but you shouldn't. Pacman frogs are display animals, not handling pets. Their permeable skin absorbs oils, lotion, soap and chemicals from your hands, and it is easily damaged, while their big mouths and strong bite can break human skin if the frog mistakes you for food. If a move is unavoidable, use clean, wet, powder-free gloves, support the whole body over a soft surface and put the frog back quickly. Always wash your hands afterward, because amphibians can carry Salmonella.

Do pacman frogs bite?

Yes, and it can hurt. A pacman frog's feeding strike is an instant reflex triggered by movement, and it has a wide mouth and a firm, clamping bite that can break skin and sometimes hold on. Most bites happen when fingers get too close during feeding, which is why you should always use long feeding tongs and never your hands. If a frog clamps on, stay calm, don't yank, wait for it to release, then clean the wound thoroughly and watch for signs of infection.

How often do you feed a pacman frog?

Froglets and young juveniles can be fed daily or every other day with appropriately sized prey. As the frog grows, taper to every second or third day, and feed adults two to three times per week with a small, controlled meal. Different keepers and vets recommend slightly different schedules, so adjust to body condition: if your frog is getting rounder, reduce portion size and frequency, and if a juvenile looks thin, increase the amount. Because obesity is the commonest killer, it's always safer to under-feed slightly than to over-feed.

Can two pacman frogs live together?

No. Pacman frogs are strictly solitary and cannibalistic, and they will try to eat anything that moves near them, including other frogs of the same species and size. Housing two together, even briefly, can result in one frog swallowing the other or both being badly injured. Each frog needs its own enclosure with its own water dish and equipment, and tongs and tools should be washed between enclosures. This rule applies to every age, size and color morph.

Why is my pacman frog not eating?

By far the most common causes are the environment and the frog's own cycle. Check that the temperature is 75 to 82°F by day and above 68°F at night, humidity is 70 to 80% and the substrate is damp. A frog that is cocooned, about to shed, recently moved or offered prey that is too big will often refuse food. A healthy adult can skip meals for a week or two without harm. If your frog has not eaten for two to three weeks, is losing weight or shows other symptoms, see an exotic or amphibian vet.